Toothing in hardwood floor repair question.
Tooth in hardwood.
For cutting tight curves less than 5 8 radius and delicate thin materials use a 1 8 or 3 16 10 14 tpi standard tooth blade.
And because the gullets between teeth are very small and don t clear out the sawdust as quickly there is a greater likelihood of binding when.
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The number of teeth on the blade helps determine the speed type and finish of the cut.
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Rather than use thresholds my intention is to tooth in to the existing floor by cutting out individual 2 25 boards then sliding new ones into place.
For general ripping and crosscutting use a 1 2 3 tpi.
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Because the cuts are naturally slower and less aggressive there is a greater likelihood that the wood will be burned due to friction as the blade feeds through the workpiece.
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I m replacing the tile floor in my kitchen with solid hardwood.
You can make a square cut on the longer pieces with your multimaster works well and put a slight back angle on the cut.
Expansion slots cut into the rim help prevent the blade from warping as it expands and contracts during use.
I intend to use unfinished red oak then re sand and finish the entire floor as a whole.
A steady hand keeps it from hitting the adjacent board and running a vacuum can keep it from burning the blades up as quickly that old oak can be hard.
Gullets between the teeth remove chips from the work pieces.
To cut curves greater than 5 8 radius or when cut quality matters more than speed use a 1 4 6 tpi standard or skip tooth blade.
There are tradeoffs you pay for that smoother cut on a fine tooth blade.
Here s a quick rundown to cover most tasks.
Selling wood flooring domestic and exotic hardwoods as well as premium softwoods and additional lumber products.
Blades with fewer teeth cut faster but those with more teeth create a finer finish.
